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Khinkali

Telavi

Pleated dough dumplings from the mountain provinces of Pshavi and Khevsureti, stuffed with spiced minced meat and a splash of broth that turns to scalding juice as they steam. Eaten strictly by hand: hold the topknot, bite a small hole, slurp the broth, then devour the rest — leaving the doughy stem on your plate as a tally of how many you've had.